Sajid Sadpara, first Pakistani mountaineer to reach Manaslu Peak: ‘The return journey became dangerous due to avalanches’
During the Manaslu adventure, strong winds of up to 60 km/h were blowing above Camp Four. At this point, some of the adventurers at Camp Four decided that they couldn’t handle the wind, but I decided based on my experience that I would continue on. Anyway, once we take steps, then the decision to return is not our way.
It is to say that of Pakistani mountaineer Sajid Sadpara. Sajid has earned the distinction of being the first Pakistani mountaineer to conquer the world’s eighth highest peak ‘Manslu’ in Nepal. Before Sajid Sadpara, his father Muhammad Ali Sadpara has also climbed this peak.
But you will ask that if Ali Sadpara has climbed Manslu in the past, then why is Sajid Sadpara being declared as the first Pakistani mountaineer to climb this peak?
So the fact is that only last year Nepalese adventurers discovered a new peak and a new approach to Manaslu which is a few meters higher than the previous highest point.
In the world of mountaineering, once a new highest point of any peak is discovered, past expeditions are considered cancelled. Keeping this in mind, Sajid Sadpara is being called the first Pakistani mountaineer to reach the peak.
After climbing this peak, Sajid Sadpara has now returned to the base camp of Manaslu.
Speaking to the BBC, he said that it took him around nine hours to reach the summit from Camp Four.
The journey from Camp Four to the summit
Sajid Sadpara says that when he reached Camp Four, the conditions there were not good.
The wind was blowing very fast. The wind speed was at least sixty kilometers per hour. At this point several climbers decided that it would not be advisable to continue the adventure in this dangerous air and they thought it best to wait at Camp Four itself.
Sajid Sadpara says that the risk is for everyone. But I am a professional climber and trained. I had to make another decision of my own. I took a few moments to decide. At this point I looked at the tools and equipment I had. I had the latest climbing gear.’
He said, “Also, my body was fully prepared to face the harsh conditions.” After which I decided I would go up. However, it was not possible for me to take the return journey as it is against my mood.
Says Sajid Sadpara, “I took courage and started the journey to conquer the peak of Manaslu.” At every step, strong winds tried to stop. These winds are not resisted by standing firm against them. This competition is done in many ways. I had been doing this since childhood and therefore I knew what to do in this situation.
“When I started the journey, I initially thought it would take me a long time because each step had to be carefully thought out,” says Sidpara. Everything had to be understood. But when I started the journey, I had reached the peak in the same time as it takes under normal conditions.
It took me about eight to nine hours. If the conditions are normal, it takes about the same time from Camp Four to the summit.
Frequent trips without support and rest
Sajid Sidpara says that he climbed the 8163 meter peak within 27 hours without stopping, sleeping or resting. When I started my journey from base camp, I did not stop at base camp one and two but stopped at camp three and four for a few minutes to drink water and tea.
During these 27 hours I did not sleep at all. He continued his journey without sleeping.
Sajid Sadpara said that during this expedition, I made my own way, installed the ropes myself and carried my own necessary equipment. ‘
“Professional mountaineering involves getting help for carrying stuff, but I decided to do it all by myself because I had done it earlier during expeditions in Pakistan. However, climbing without any help is more important.
He said that Manaslu is a difficult mountain.
A difficult journey back
Sajid Sadpara says that during the return journey, the accident occurred due to an avalanche. In addition to a Sri Lankan Sherpa, an American woman mountaineer Hilary Nelson also died in this accident.
“The avalanche blocked all the routes and all the ropes were gone.”
He said that in this situation, I decided to delay my return journey until relief activities etc., for which I stayed at Camp Four for a long time. When the conditions improved, then again started the return journey by attaching ropes etc.
