Azerbaijan’s Silk Road Heritage: Tracing the Footsteps of Ancient Traders
We find ourselves in the enchanting city of Sheki, a UNESCO World Heritage site nestled against the lush foothills of Azerbaijan’s Greater Caucasus Mountains. Our journey takes us to a rare tour of the silk factory, which has been the region’s economic backbone for decades.
As we explore the factory, our guide Ilqar Aghayevm presents us with a bowl filled with white, lozenge-shaped balls. These compressed cotton wool balls, known as cocoons, have already undergone sorting and baking. Sadly, the pupa inside did not survive, resulting in the faint rattling sound when shaken. Ilqar acknowledges the Western sensitivities to animal welfare, but he highlights the unavoidable reality that silk production requires the sacrifice of countless silk pupae before the intricate process of creating silk cloth can commence.
The baked cocoons must undergo a series of steps, including softening, removal of outer coatings using soft-brushing machines, unraveling, spooling onto bobbins, respinning, and finally weaving. This complex process requires a dedicated team of nimble-fingered operatives, mostly older women adorned in vibrant floral aprons, to keep the machinery running smoothly.
After the arduous work, which also includes dyeing and hand stamping, it’s astonishing to discover that Azerbaijan’s iconic kelaghayi (hand-stamped silk scarfs) can be purchased for as little as $30 from the factory’s elegant outlet boutique.
Silk Road, Silk Roads, Silk Routes?
Surprisingly, this picturesque rustic town was once a prominent stop along a branch of the legendary Silk Road. The work carried out here today is part of a broader resurgence of East-West trade across the region.
The Great Silk Road, also known as the Silk Route, was a fabled overland supply chain that facilitated the transportation of Chinese goods to ancient Rome from the 2nd century BCE. In an era without trains or planes, traversing vast and inhospitable regions of Eurasia necessitated well-equipped teams of pack animals, typically camels traveling in caravans.
These caravans sought refuge in sturdy walled enclosures, where traders could find lodging and sustenance. These evolved into caravanserais, precursors to traveler’s inns, providing accommodations for a pre-motorized era.
Despite its name, the Silk Route was a network of routes rather than a singular path, and the trade involved much more than just silk. Pepper, spices, and precious metals were also sought after in pre-medieval Europe. The influx of silver and gold to pay for these luxuries created a balance-of-payments crisis in Rome during the 3rd century CE, akin to the current global debts owed to China.
Geopolitical Opportunities
The better-known sections of the Silk Route traversed the deserts of Central Asia and Iran. However, there were instances in history when disorder, insecurity, or international politics disrupted the major routes. Trans-Caucasian routes gained popularity when conditions were less conducive to trade through the Persian world.
Today, geopolitical challenges in Iran and Russia have once again prompted Asian trade to funnel through the Caspian region, Azerbaijan, and Georgia. The 21st-century “silk route” is symbolized by the recently inaugurated rail-link between Istanbul and Baku, known as the “Iron Silk Road.” This route closely parallels the crucial Baku-Tbilisi-Ceyhan oil pipeline, further enhancing trade volumes and offering a fresh exploration of the region’s Silk Road history.
A Tourism Draw
Returning to Sheki’s silk factory, Ilqar recounts how less than a decade ago, the city’s historic silk industry faced collapse as the factory underwent bankruptcy. However, Azerbaijan’s economic boom breathed new life into the local popularity of kelaghayi scarfs. Wearing these traditional scarfs has taken on a patriotic aura since their inclusion on UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list in 2014.
Sheki’s silk industry, along with its Silk Road heritage, is now consciously leveraged to attract tourists. Extensive renovations of historic buildings and museums in the city’s photogenic old core aim to bring forth more of the region’s story.
The Rejuvenation of Basqal
Sheki is not the sole “silk center” in Azerbaijan. The overgrown village of Basqal gained recognition for its silk products at London’s 1862 International Exhibition. However, the historic center of Basqal had fallen into disrepair in the 20th century, with its surviving scarf-design workshop using stained old bathtubs for the dyeing process.
But change is afoot in Basqal. A new workshop is under construction, and a restoration of the old center was unveiled in August 2022. The streets have been stabilized, old houses have been partially repaired, and newer buildings now boast new stonework and lantern-lamps. Additionally, the Basqal Resort & Spa, designed as a “silk route getaway,” offers demonstrations of kelaghayi silk-printing, providing employment opportunities and artistic inspiration.
The newly widened highway connecting Basqal to Baku has significantly reduced travel time, making this route more accessible than ever before.
Other Silk Road Legacies
Sheki’s rise as a silk center was attributed to the destruction of the former regional capital, Shamakhi, due to military sieges and earthquakes. While Sheki has flourished, remnants of the Silk Road can be found elsewhere in Azerbaijan.
Baku, the country’s largest and wealthiest city, gained prominence during the late 19th-century oil boom. However, it experienced an earlier period of brilliance between the 12th and 15th centuries. Remarkably, four small stone caravanserais from that era have survived. These caravanserais, including the Multani Caravanserai and Bukhara Caravanserai, are undergoing renovations as Azerbaijan rediscovers its Silk Road heritage.
Ganja, the central city along the main 21st-century rail-and-oil trade route, also played an essential role in the Silk Road. Although less recognized, it held significance as a regional center for trade.
As Azerbaijan embraces its Silk Road legacy, there is a renewed focus on preserving and promoting the rich history and cultural heritage associated with these ancient trade routes. The convergence of trade, tourism, and cultural appreciation ensures that the Silk.
